BBCSenegalese farmer Mohamed Houali has never been to sea, but he is about to embark on a dangerous ocean journey that will turn the Atlantic Ocean into a mass grave.
“The boatman called me and told me to get ready. Please pray for me, it’s time,” he says.
BBC Africa Eye has gained unprecedented access to the secret world of migrants hoping to reach Europe via the dangerous crossing between West Africa and Spain’s Canary Islands.
And Houari hopes to be one of the migrants arriving in the archipelago, where numbers are at an all-time high.
Local governments have warned that what awaits them on the archipelago’s rocky shores is a system that is “overwhelmed” and “at breaking point,” but nothing has shaken Mr Oury’s resolve.
Overcrowded in a pirogue, a traditional wooden fishing canoe, Owley may spend days or even weeks at the mercy of one of the world’s most unforgiving oceans. do not have.
The distance from Senegal is estimated to be between 1,000km (600 miles) and 2,000km across the open ocean, depending on where you start from, which is about 10 times the distance of other migrant routes across the Mediterranean.
Battling ocean storms and strong currents, migrants suffer from severe motion sickness and extreme fear, and often run out of water.
Surrounded by dark waters at night, people often become confused and overwhelmed with panic and dehydration.
The number of migrants arriving on El Hierro since the beginning of 2023 has more than doubled the island’s population
In Tambacounda, eastern Senegal, far from the coast, Houary’s children and relatives depend on the meager income they earn from farming.
The 40-year-old had not seen them in nearly a year since they approached one of the main departure points along the coast.
There he worked as a motorbike taxi driver and borrowed money from friends to collect the $1,000 (£765) fee to board a ship to the Canary Islands.
Fearing fraud, he agreed with the smugglers to hand over the entire amount only if the ship reached the end.
“No one knows what will happen to me in these waters. The evil spirits of the sea may kill me,” he told the BBC from the safety of the beach.
“The boat could capsize and kill us all. If we fall into the water, what will we hold on to? The only possibility is death, but we have to take the risk.”
Dozens of boats disappeared with hundreds of lives on board. Without proper navigation systems, some can veer off course and drift all the way across the Atlantic Ocean, washing up on the shores of Brazil.
If he survives the journey, Mr. O’Lee wants to earn a living to take care of his large family, but he keeps his plans secret so as not to worry his family.
Dark waters: Africa’s most dangerous migration route – BBC Africa Eye investigates the perilous Atlantic crossing from West Africa to Spain’s Canary Islands.
Watch on iPlayer (UK only) or the BBC Africa YouTube channel (outside the UK).
Senegal has recorded strong economic performance in the decade since 2010, but more than a third of the country still lives in poverty, according to the World Bank.
“I’ve done every job you can imagine, but things didn’t get any better. If there’s no money, it doesn’t matter. I’m their only hope, but there’s no money,” he says .
Like Ouali, most migrants on this route are sub-Saharan Africans fleeing poverty and conflict exacerbated by climate change.
The Canary Islands have become a major gateway for illegal migrants and refugees hoping to reach Europe, especially after countries such as Italy and Greece introduced measures to crack down on other routes across the Mediterranean from Libya and Tunisia. .
Approximately 40,000 people will arrive in 2023, the highest number in 30 years. More than 30,800 tourists have already visited the beach so far this year, more than double the number during the same period last year.
As weather conditions improve in the Atlantic, the Canary Islands government fears the “worst is yet to come”.
In an exclusive interview with BBC Africa Eye, President of the Canary Islands Government Fernando Clavijo described an “oversaturated” emergency system with maritime rescue workers, police and Red Cross volunteers stretched to capacity.
“As a result, more people die and migrants are not given the support they deserve,” Clavijo explains.
“The Mediterranean Sea is currently closed off in Europe, which means the more dangerous and deadly Atlantic route has become an escape valve.”
The BBC spoke to Spanish paramedics, who spoke on condition of anonymity to describe their exhaustion.
“Workers cannot bear to witness any more death and misery,” one said.
On El Hierro, the archipelago’s smallest island, the number of migrants arriving since early 2023 has already increased to nearly 30,000, more than double the local population.
Clavijo said all public buses are being used to transport migrants and cannot be used by local residents, and worries that they could fuel xenophobia and cause social unrest.
“From the European Union to the Spanish government, we all have to take responsibility, because we cannot leave the Canary Islands alone in this crisis.”
In recent months, a sharp increase in arrivals has sparked an intense national debate in Spain over how to deal with irregular migrants, with the Canary Islands looking after migrants, especially unaccompanied children. We are calling for increased state aid for this purpose.
After returning to Senegal, Houari was finally summoned by the smugglers and gathered with other migrants in a secret hideout. His fate is now in their hands.
“There are a lot of us and the house is full. Some people come from Mali and Guinea. They take us in small boats of 10 to 15 people, and then we get to a big boat and then we leave. ” he says.
To survive the long journey, O’Lee took only a few bottles of water and some biscuits.
For the first two days, he felt constantly unwell. Due to lack of space, they spend most of their time standing, sleeping in seawater mixed with fuel.
There is no water left and we have to drink water from the sea.
Some people on the boat start screaming or become disoriented. The crew tells others to hold on so they don’t fall overboard or push others.
Watch: Boat carrying Mohamed Ouali and other migrants surrounded by large waves in the open sea
The Atlantic route is fast becoming the world’s deadliest migrant journey, according to data from the United Nations migration agency (IOM).
An estimated 807 people will be dead or missing by 2024, an increase of 76% compared to the same period last year.
However, the number of casualties is likely to be higher as fatalities tend not to be recorded along this route.
“Every 45 minutes, a migrant dies trying to reach our shores. This means the human trafficking mafia is becoming more and more powerful,” said Spanish rights group Walking. Clavijo said, referring to data from Borders.
The United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime estimates that criminals earn around $150 million a year through this route.
“The mafia organizing the trips realize that this is like drug trafficking and that there is little chance of being caught,” said Spain’s Guardia Civil team, set up to fight smugglers. Lieutenant Antonio Fuentes told the BBC.
“For them, migrants are just a commodity. They transport people the same way they transport drugs and weapons. They are just victims.”
To better understand these criminal networks, the BBC spoke to one of the Senegalese smugglers who organized the boat trip, who requested anonymity.
“If you’re paying about $500 per person for a big boat that can carry 200 to 300 people, that’s a lot of money,” he says.
When faced with criminal charges as a human trafficker for a trip that killed many local residents, the smuggler was unrepentant, telling the BBC:
“Some people are dead in the water, but the boat keeps going.”
The BBC has not received any news from Mr O’Leary for five days. Then one night, I get a call from him.
“The motor was getting hot and the wind was so strong that some of the fishermen suggested we go to Morocco. But the captain refused. He said if we proceeded slowly we would be in Spain by 6am. I said it would arrive.”
Mr. Owley was less than a day away from reaching the Canary Islands when the ship’s engine failed. Many of the emigrants rebelled against their captains, fearing even stronger winds once they were out in the Atlantic Ocean.
“Everyone started arguing and insulting each other. The captain relented and returned to Senegal.”
O’Leary survived the journey, but was injured during the journey and developed serious health problems.
He is in constant pain and moves slowly.
After a year of travel planning, O’Lee is back to square one and is now back with her family and saving enough money for her next trip.
“I want to go back and try again. Yes, I’m honest with God, that’s what I believe. It’s better for me. If I die, it’s God’s choice.”
If Ouary were to arrive in Europe, he would likely not see his family for many years. If he died at sea, he would be lost to them forever.
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