I’ve never been to the Coachella or Woodstock music festivals, but I can give you an idea of what to expect from the atmosphere: crowds, heat, very loud music, and a freewheeling party atmosphere that starts early and lasts until late. I know very well. I’ve been to an event called the “Woodstock of technology conferences,” and while the hyperbole was overkill, I know exactly what they wanted to evoke.
The South Bay Beachlife Festival started in 2019 and is still a new event compared to those mythical events, think Woodstock or Coachella. Although it has its own identity, it has valet parking, no desert dust or prairie mud, and luxury hotels within walking distance. . It will also offer food and drinks that go far beyond the food trucks and plastic cups of beer that are standard at concerts.
Behind the stove at Beachlife Festival is Chef Jacob Ramos. His work at that event was popular enough that festival organizers decided they should have a place to showcase his skills all year round. They took over a former liquor store in Redondo Beach Riviera Village and converted it into Beachlife Grotto, a seafood-focused restaurant.
Beachlife Grotto’s architecture is reminiscent of a luxury resort, and at night it glows with blue neon lights. Photo credit: Richard Foss
When I first visited the restaurant, I expected it to be celebrating the festival, with pictures of music legends on the walls and recordings of shows playing on an endless loop on the sound system. Instead, the soundtrack is low and cold, and the walls are decorated with nautical paintings, photographs, and memorabilia. Rope carvings on the walls suggest a ship’s rigging without veering into kitsch territory. It reminds me of the living room of someone with good taste who loves boating.
The menu is full of seafood, but there are also options for those who like to eat what grows above the water. The list does not distinguish between small plates and main dishes. The clerk has to tell me that the corn agnolotti is a bowl with 5 small raviolis and the mushroom chitarra pasta is the main course. As is often the case in modern restaurants, the language is concise and uses fairly vague terminology, leaving you reliant on your server’s instructions. This was not an issue as all the staff we dealt with were very knowledgeable.
During our two experiences at Beachlife Grotto, we sampled six appetizers: aged sourdough bread, hamachi, beet and cashew salad, tuna crudo, corn agnolotti, and an item called Grotto Ricotta, which is not dominated by ricotta cheese. I did. Indian-style fried bread spread with homemade ricotta cheese and topped with white peaches sautéed in black butter, peach compote, and honey. I would like to try it again without honey as it seemed unnecessary and added sweetness and complexity to a dish full of natural flavors.
Beachlife Grotto appetizers include Indian flatbread with yellowtail tuna crudo, top, house-made ricotta, fresh peaches and peach compote; Photo by Richard Foss
A beet and cashew salad with arugula, pecans, pears, fromage blanc, and honey vinegar is a more satisfying balance, with the bitter greens and sweet beets pairing well with the nuts. The fromage blanc is smeared onto the dish rather than a block of cheese, helping it blend with the other ingredients rather than being the primary flavor on its own. It would have been nice if the nuts could have been smaller and distributed more evenly throughout the salad, but that’s just a minor issue.
I had no qualms about tuna crudo, or “hamachi,” but some might point out that the last of these three items looks like the same word in Japanese and English. . That’s kind of what it is. Yellowtail is a specific variety and grade of yellowtail (sometimes called amberjack, in case you’re not already confused). In this case, the best fish is served with a splash of green Peruvian hot sauce called leche de tigre and a concoction called charred allium, which is made by mixing oil with onions that have been charred and caramelized to ashes. It was just offered. This sounds like a kitchen mistake turned into a gourmet seasoning, and from what I know it might be, but the nutty, smoky, slightly sweet flavor complements the fish nicely.
The tuna crudo was a more delicate dish, consisting of slices of tender fish marinated in soy sauce on a bed of chopped tuna and whiskey barrel-aged soy sauce, topped with crunchy shallots and small chunks of avocado. It didn’t quite fit the traditional definition of sushi or Italian food, but it was very tasty.
Beachlife Grotto is owned by Jim Risner (left) and Allen Sanford. Photo by JP Cordero.
Compared to these inventive and unconventional offerings, the agnolotti stuffed with boiled rock shrimp in corn sauce and served with roasted chanterelles was almost shocking. It’s a traditional dish proudly served in any Italian restaurant, and I could happily eat a bowl as an appetizer.
On my second visit, I had the sourdough bread at the server’s suggestion, but I would have ordered it on my first visit if I had known how much I wanted it. I hated seeing the bowl of corn sauce being put away. Because I wanted to wipe off all the corn sauce. It’s a delicious bread on its own, slathered with herb butter, lightly toasted, and served with a mix of good butter, oil, and vinegar.
On both visits, we tried cocktails with our appetizers and glasses of wine with dinner. Both were well tailored to the experience. The bar and cellar are well stocked but not lavishly stocked, so don’t come here expecting 30 scotches and 9 exotic mezcals. They have a large selection and know how to make very tasty drinks with it. There are two Mai Tais: the alcohol-friendly Storyteller and the fruitier Aloha. I ordered both to enjoy the comparison. The wine list is similarly not long, but well-chosen, and the staff knows the pairings well.
After having a hard time choosing between seafood entrees, I chose Thai sea bream, Peruvian scallops, branzino with chimichurri, sun-dried tomatoes, and candied figs. The branzino was the best of both meals, perfectly grilled fish drizzled with chimichurri, topped with artfully arranged figs and sun-dried tomatoes, and served on heirloom barley called Job’s Tears. I did. The gluten-free grain has a pleasant chew and delicate nutty flavor, and once you try it, you’ll want to play with it in the kitchen. This is one of several factors that make this complex item a success.
The scallops showed that Chef Ramos knows when to let a great ingredient speak for itself, because you can’t improve on a perfectly grilled scallop. Serve with something to complement the buttery, oily flavor, in this case sweet potatoes topped with an unusually spicy Peruvian green chile sauce. I loved this, but my dining companions found it a bit difficult, so if anyone at your table is sensitive to spice, ask for this on the side. Although it was small for an appetizer, it was worth ordering to share when others got more substantial items.
It could be Thai sea bream, a large whole fish fried and served with jasmine rice, Thai vegetables, and mango and papaya salad. Although the fish itself isn’t in a spicy sauce, the mango salad has a pleasant peppery flavor with a fruity kick.
Beachlife Grotto specializes in seafood, but the brick-flattened chicken is a standout dish. Photo credit: Richard Foss
To try dishes that weren’t fishy, we also had forest mushroom chitarra, filet mignon, and brick-flattened chicken. The chitalla, a large diameter spaghetti, had firm mushrooms, shallots, white wine, garlic butter sauce and a bit of Parmesan cheese. This was another example of the chef paying homage to Italian culinary traditions and executing them perfectly. The brick chicken is more multicultural, with the bird itself perfectly juicy with a crispy skin obtained from cooking under hot bricks, while the Peruvian-style potatoes and mustard frilled greens are tossed in a garlic and chili sauce. Ta. It’s very filling, and if you order a few appetizers and share it between two people, you’ll have a great meal.
Another non-seafood menu item we tried was filet mignon, served with roasted cipollini onions and forest mushrooms, served with mild Aligot cheese and blended mashed potatoes. The steak was very tender, but a little too salty for my palate. My favorite part was the roasted mushrooms and onions. This didn’t measure up to the fireworks of the dishes on the other plates and felt more like a dish the chef had put on the menu for one person in the party who wanted simple American food. That being said, they’ll enjoy it while your more adventurous dining companions explore more original ideas.
There are only three desserts. Mud pie with candied figs, Peruvian donuts with stewed peaches, and vanilla and chamomile cake. The mud pie had an Oreo cookie flavor that was brightened up with a bit of roasted fig sauce, but the sauce wasn’t enough for me. Because that was my favorite part. The Peruvian sweet potato flour donut was more successful, the dough was heavier than standard flour, but the flavor was more interesting and the combination with the braised peaches was great. The highlight of the dessert was, surprisingly, a cake that exploded with delicate herbal and vanilla flavors as soon as you cut into it. The chocolate lace topping is a beautiful garnish that adds a little flavor and crunch, and is a total success.
When restaurant manager Matt Stamacher came through the dining room to our table, I mentioned that I had never been to the festival that inspired this restaurant. I was surprised when he answered, “I’ve never done either.” He is new to the area and was just hired a few months before opening.
Perhaps it’s because of its association with the festival or the atmosphere of the place, but the clientele is much younger than what you’d find at more upscale restaurants in the area. It costs about $100 plus change per person, more if you’re interested in wine. This is common in high-end restaurants near the beach. Beachlife Grotto is an interesting addition to the South Bay dining scene, where chefs make bold culinary choices that often pay off.
Beachlife Grotto is located at 1711 S. Catalina Avenue in Redondo. Open Wednesdays — Sundays, 4pm to 10pm Small parking lot or street parking. Full bar, $30 corkage fee. Some vegan items too. Indoor and outdoor dining. Rooftop patio. Noise levels are moderate and wheelchair access is good. (310) 373-1200. BeachLifeGrotto.com. E.R.
